Wednesday, December 28, 2005

Anecdotes and stories

Anecdotes are smaller than movie plot lines and bigger than one-liners. They live, or vibrate, or resonate, or some such thing, after they are told. Some anecdotes are always interesting.

Anecdotes that are found always to be of interest: stories of family members long estranged who re-connect and find that the whole thing was a misunderstanding. Stories of women who are dating someone totally unlikely: their dentist, their OB/GYN. (Not, I should add, their garbage man or VCR repairman. These are bad porn plots.) Stories of offspring whose parentage is unclear.

Monday, December 26, 2005

Sharks and fish

Seeing a shark is always a good anecdote. Okay I didn't see the shark but I was snorkeling with people who saw a shark and that's almost as good. The snorkeling near the hotel isn't great but our first year here we found out where the locals snorkel, which is down Highway 30 (toward the waist of Maui), mile marker 14 to be exact, near the French restaurant that we never go to. There's a small strip of beach between the highway and the ocean, just enough to pull your car in between the trees and set a couple of towels down. The black sand beaches slope gently toward the water, there's no surf, because of the reef, which is good for small children, and there's a lot of shade. Once you head out about 20 feet, through a channel, the snorkeling is amazing. We've always seen everything: trigger fish, parrot fish, wrasses of all colors, turtles galore, and big eels with chalk-white cottony mouths and teeth. Every few years there's a shark attack at mile marker 14 too, but we haven't seen a shark.

I went out today with my brother Dave, who is brave, especially when I told him that it might not be the best time of the month for me to be snorkeling in shark-invested waters. He wasn't scared. But after a half hour, when we reached the end of the reef and the waters became deep, I became a little nervous and headed in. He and some others stayed out exploring. They came back in another half hour having seen a 7-8 foot white-tip shark asleep on the bottom of the ocean near the edge of the reef. He thinks it was asleep, though it could have been just being vewy vewy quiet, waiting for something yummy to come along. Or perhaps it had recently eaten and was being a bottom potato.

We managed to keep the news from the kids. But there is something about sharks, especially big ones, that excites listeners. Tomorrow we'll go back again.

Saturday, December 24, 2005

Small worlds

When my family first began coming to Maui in 2000, I was semi-surprised to see a student of mine from Princeton, with her family, at the same resort. Only semi-surprised because one realizes how small a world the, how should one say, educated class in America is. It's like the wonderful scene in "Room With A View," where the Daniel Day Lewis character says, apropos of the "coincidence" of people who knew each other in Italy meeting again in the Italian rooms of the British Museum, that it is in reality no coincidence at all but utterly expected. So of course I should meet my Princeton students at a resort on Maui; the surprise is that I haven't met more of them.
So now five years later I see my same student and her family again (our schedules didn't overlap for a few years) and find that she is a third-year law student (which I sort of knew, since I wrote one of her law school recommendations), and that her brother is a fellow at one of those libertarian D.C. think tanks, and that her socialist parents are aghast. Again, I think that it is both a small world and not a small world; that we are schools of fish who swim together and circulate in the same small sea. What the hell am I doing in Mississippi, outside of that sea?

Friday, December 23, 2005

Science and Labor

The thing about travelling with smart middle-school kids is that you can actually get them to focus on big questions if you work at it; the problem is that their brains generally relapse afterward and they behave like toddlers an hour later.

We had a nice conversation about whether one could call Captain Cook and his crew "scientists," and, by that standard, would be right in equating his crew's spirit of inquiry with that of the Polynesians who arrived in Hawaii centuries earlier. Spirited discussion; nothing decided.

I've been
thinking a lot about Marx on this trip. Karl, not Groucho (though I'm grouchy); Kapital, not Manifesto. That is, I'm thinking about labor and who performs it and why and how it is visible or invisible. People really make an effort here in little ways that they don't in Mississippi. We were noticing this in Santa Monica too -- how store owners and buildings show evidence of care and thought in presentation and appearance. Well it's an expensive area, so why not, right? But even in the (relatively) poor and rural areas of Hawaii you see signs of labor, or care taken: little things like the way a vine is trained around a mailbox or the lava rocks are placed at the end of the driveway. I used to laugh at this sort of thing growing up but I really miss it in Mississippi. I guess it's what Guliani used to talk about re: graffiti and trash.
But I've been thinking about it in a Marxist way rather than a neo-con suburban "betterment" sort of way (as part of that oh-so-compelling discourse of the ownership society and the Friedman "nobody washes a rented car" thing which has its history in only allowing landowners to vote in england until 1867 or thereabouts). What the marxist labor model allows is a way of seeing labor for its own sake, not for accumulation or sale. To see labor is to see laborers, not owners. This thing that Friedman et al do to conflate labor with ownership undercuts the value of labor in favor of the value of price appreciation, thus turning those who plant flowers into members of the investment class rather than the laboring class.
Perhaps I'm noticing this here because there is no growth or change in the rural areas of Hawaii (no bulldozers apparent except on the fancy coasts), very few For Sale signs, some very iffy structures, and yet totally surrounded with incredible labor in working with the natural resources: winding vines, sweeps of ferns, homemade windchimes, tended orchids, hidden shell patterns, well-placed walkways -- all unnecessary except for aesthetic reasons. Just because. Ethical aesthetics. It makes me happier than anything else here because it's so absent in Mississippi. I know this sounds sentimental and goopy but I like seeing this labor and appreciating it as labor, not as lifestyle choice or hobby or the natural outlet of native energies.

Volcano

I am in Hawaii. On Maui. Yesterday I was on the Big Island of Hawaii and went to visit Kilauea, the volcano, which I had wanted to see since I was eight years old. The whole Volcanoes National Park there is wonderful: worth seeing. Hiked the Kilauea Iki Crater. At the Observatory overlooking the Halema'uma'u Crater there is a description of the lake of lava there in 1866 by Mark Twain (from "Roughing It"). I had forgotten about that. I was in turn imagining Twain seeing the molten lava. It's all cool now.
Our hike inside the other crater was fun -- lots of steam vents out of which hiss hot steam (naturally). Very hot and sulphury.
At sunset we drove down a road called Chain of Craters road and stopped at the end of the road where a 2003 lava flow made it impassible. Then we walked along bumpy (but cool) lava, ignoring all of the Danger! signs, until we got to a viewing point where tourists were clustered. There, as the sun drifted lower, we could see dim red lights emerging on the hillside. Lava! Real live hot red lava! Very exciting. But from a distance. Closer to us, where the tube of lava met the ocean, wonderful billows of steam and red clouds puffed up. Wished we could hear it. Very exciting.